A new discovery, a love of recording nature rekindled and a book of sketches to remind me of a fantastic trip.
The azure water of Croatia washed away all my stress of the past couple of months. We stayed in Verudula, a huge hotel complex across the entire peninsula. Our room had a balcony overlooking the rocky coastline and we were often treated to views of sailing boats, spear fishers trailing their catch under a surface buoy. Normally the large resorts are my worst nightmare, but we went just before the season started.
Visual Field Science Log
I didn’t bring my camera set up this trip, the small bag allowance and technical underwater set up wasn’t necessary for this first opportunity to unwind this year.
I decided I’d revert to my younger self and record a visual diary of wildlife I saw, before new technology. My full nature nerd engaged and felt like a mini Ernst Haeckel creating a scientific field log.
Kamenjak
With the mixture of treeline and coastline we hiked around the local natural park at Kamenjak with lizards escaping our every step, their sunbathing rudely interrupted. My eye was caught by every intricate detail, spotting interesting flora and fauna.
After returning from the dappled sunlight we tested the waters, off the ladder near our accommodation. Without our wetsuits the water was very cold, like a thousand small needles on our heads. The sea life was sparsely distributed but the rain and wind from previous day washed in ctenophores, compass and moon jellies which littered the water column.
To end the day, we were treated to an amazing sunset, a clear view of the sun dipping below the horizon unobscured by clouds. Dolphins leaping, bathed in a warm amber light, which made the rocks shine like copper.
Rovinj
Rovinj is a picturesque coastal town Northwest or our peninsula. The town is a circle of terracotta roofed houses, quaint cobbled streets and a white spire. We explored the town and then hiked to a spot rumoured to have wild seahorses.
The snorkel wasn’t ideal coverage for seahorses and blennies were the stars of the snorkel. To start, there was a 20cm Tompot blenny perched on a dark sea cucumber at about 4m. To end, a group of iridescent sphinx blennies on the rock at the entrance, in less than 1m. The eye stalks protruding out of their holes and dorsal fins flared up on the flat rock. Blennies are charismatic creatures that occupy all areas and remain my favourite companions to snorkels worldwide.
We revisited Rovinj, to more weedy site but no seahorses. Although an excited marine biologist exited the water. Now imagine , I’ve been snorkelling since 6 years old, blennies being a guarantee. I looked at the black sponges as they were patterned with grey. A yellow flash, retreating into a hole. I waited and a curious face looked out. A NEW BLENNY! The black head had chubby cheeks with vibrant yellow that blended into orange. Very shy but a yellow beacon for me to spot throughout the trip...
Brijuni Island
Brijuni Island was an enjoyable combination of trees, rocks, turquoise pools and open green spaces. We rented bikes and explored every corner of the island, eager to explore rather than read the tourist map too closely. Oops. The refreshing headwind accompanied us as the paths changed and even had blue on both sides for some of it! The lack of fishing meant there were large bass patrolling the hotel walls and huge shoal of black spotted bream as the ferry left.
Hawaii Beach
The day before our flight we snorkelled the local beach on our peninsula with an underwater gorge. There was a small hole but too small to pass through, the gorge was a quick freedive through but not fringed. There were multiple sea stars on this snorkel, both red and spiny. We explored both sides of the busy beach and found my Caneva Blenny again as well as a Giant Goby, the largest I have ever seen!... sitting guard on a nearby shelf, even after swimming away it was still large! A few shells was evidence of a octopus, but it must have moved on, much like we had to. Great snorkel and some interesting depths to explore.
